Wednesday, August 27, 2014

Older project: Robe à la Française - planning

So, last year I did a project what was the most complex and the lengthiest thing I have ever done. I signed up for international larp in sweden and because Nordic larp has much higher costume standards than the ones I am used to, I wanted to make really nice and in some level historically accurate dress. The time period was 18th century (they had specific year that I cannot remember it anymore). So, after doing some searching of what kind of dresses were worn on that time, I found some fascinating pictures of Robe à la Française. I like that "cape" like thing at the back so I was sold even thought it looked so complicated. Why not. On that moment I had around 3 months till the event.

First thing that I decided was that I will need pattern for the dress. I would have improvised but I wasn't sure about the bodice nor the sleeves (I always think that I could improvise everything else, expect sleeves).

After googeling around, I found that Simplicity had amazing pattern (3637) that had right kind of dress.

So, I knew what kind of pattern I wanted but getting it was hard as it was out of print and not too many copies were around. In the end, I managed to find one from french ebay and I paid for it much more than I planned but I was fixed on the idea of getting this pattern - I had tried few simplicity patterns before and they were not that simple but it felt good to follow instructions.. And this whole project scared hell out of me anyway. Making that kind of dress.. :S What was I thinking (I actually even considered buying one dress from etsy at first but then.. I started to feel sorry for my money.. to spoilt it: I think I spent almost the same amount of money in the end for all the parts and pieces of this project + huge number of hours but it was worth it).

It was also sure for me at the beginning that it is not only going to be dress. There is going to be underdress, corset, panier etc..

First I planned to buy the panier as it sounded quite complicated to make myself and I wasn't sure I could get anything that would be suitable to make it. In the end, as the cost quite a lot, I decided to deal with it in the end. If nothing else works, the plan was to get myself the "usual" panier that wedding dresses have and use ribbons to force it to be in the (almost) right shape.

So, I knew I will be making four different pieces for the project but I had no idea what design the dress will have. What colors, what materials etc.. I ended up making a sketch for myself to get the concept of the char..

So.. that was the original idea. Black and red combination was crossed out by my mother who told that on those time no proper lady wore red so.. in the end.. I decided I will go to the fabric shop and see what I can get.

I ended up with a velvet like green fabric that looked to be more light but I needed to buy a lot of it. I think the pattern's envelope said I needed around 20 meters of 115 cm fabric. That sounded way too much for me. The fabric I got was 145 cm wide and I only got 10 meters of it. I actually planned to have more draps at the back than the pattern had (the drapping of the dress was the most magical part for me that made me wish to make it.. and when I looked the pattern and some projects other people had made, I thought no.. I want more.. and i found online tutorial that had more draps and used it.. in the end, I think, I decided I will have as many draps as much fabric I will have left). Anyway.. 10 meters was enough and I had two full lengths for drapping and for one set of unsuccessful sleeve cuffs. (and even if the fabric felt more light than real velvet, 10 meters of it is really heavy).

I also got really nice light white linen for the underdress. For the peticoat I got fancy silver/grey curtain fabric with nice little flower ornaments. That was actually great find. So the dress was changed from red/black to silver/green. Interesting choice as I would have never thought about it before but that was the best I could come up.

Tuesday, August 26, 2014

First post

So, let's make few things sure first. No, I am not huge anime fan. To be honest, I had really bad assumption about animes but that has changed a little. I like sewing. I like making nice costumes and wearing them. I am seasoned larper and that used to be my reason and excuse why spend sometimes hours behind sewing machine. To be honest, when I started larping, I was horrible at sewing. It was the need for make my own costumes that made me try and like with everything else, you learn while you do. So, I learned and I think now I feel myself quite at home in the sewing world (except button holes.. they trouble me).

Anyway, my boyfriend is huge anime fan and is actually in organizing theme for local largest anime festival and I think there came the idea that mm.. if I am going to that convention, maybe I could do a cosplay (and hide that I do not belong in that world). That gave me the push to go on and try something new.. trying to copy something from animation and transform myself into anime char. I have no idea what comes out of it.. Let's see.

Anyway.. I decided to go with Irisviel from Fate/Zero (mm.. maybe because there are only very few animes I have seen and somehow I liked her, quite a lot to be honest.) Then there were few options for different outfits but I liked the casual one with red blouse the most. Also, when googeling around, it did not looked that too many people had tried it. The one with white coat seemed to be the most popular one.



So, the first thing I did was ordering myself few things I cannot do myself: that includes wig and boots.

As I have no idea how things are done in cosplay world (and I actually did not told at first to my boyfriend that I am going to do it), I just went with my own gut - searched for the wig in ebay and got myself cheap wig from China. To be honest, it looks awful currently but then I googled for few tips and I think I might be able to salvage it.

The other thing I ordered were the boots. I found quite many online shops offering those fancy looking boots but one actually looked great on the picture and they took into account all your measurements (I was worried that might be the problem.. I never find boots easily).

So, I was actually really excited when the boots arrived. They look gorgeous and fit super well... but.. I have no idea how but they had very weird black spot on them. I contacted the seller, tried to remove them but nothing helped. So, they promised to make a new pair of boots for me. Okei.. that should work.. Another month of waiting and new pair of boots arrive - one boot is brilliant - no marks. The other one - even more uglier black spots.. Like what? Anyway.. I gave up. The quality and the fit was brilliant but I think it was the packaging that hurt and even if I mentioned it specifically that I suspected the marks came from that, they packaged the boots the same way second time.. So.. I have two sets of boots and only one boot that is okey.. I will see what I can do with it, later..

Next thing I need is the brooch. That was actually I think the hardest thing. I googled around (again) and there was somebody selling those brooches made out of clay. I thought that might be little too heavy and I most say I did not liked the images they showed me of the same broach made previously.. So, I thought about some other options. One of my friends studies leather work and I asked her if she is willing to do that commission for me. So far, so good.

So, my next step was to come up with a design so that she could work on it. Some screenshotting from the anime and some time working with photoshop (maybe not the best tool for it but I'm very handy with that program) and I had design, measurments and did some mock printups to see if the size is correct.
Mock printups.. First one had too small sides. Second one looks perfect
Final design

So, I sent the final design to my friend and I will see what she says - I hope it will be possible for her to make that kind of brooch.